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judy smith Nov 2016
Shortly after 3pm on September 29, 31-year-old Olivier Rousteing strode through the shimmering, fleshy backstage area at Balmain's Spring 2017 Paris Fashion Week show. Along the marble hallway of a hôtel particulier in the 8th arrondissement, long-limbed clusters of supermodels were gamely tolerating final applications of leg-moisturiser, make-up touch-ups and minutely precise hair interventions from squads of specialists as fast and accurate as any Formula 1 pit-stop team. The crowd parted as Rousteing swept through.

Wearing a belted, black silk tuxedo and a focused expression that accentuated his razor-sharp cheekbones, Rousteing resembled a sensuous hit man. Target identified, he led us to the board upon which photographs of every outfit were tacked.

We asked him to tell us about the collection (for that's what fashion editors always ask). "There is no theme," said Rou­steing in his fast, French-accented lilt. "No inspiration from travel or time. The inspiration is what I feel, and what I feel now is peace, light and serenity. I feel like in my six years here before this, I have tried to fight so many battles. Because there is no point anymore in fighting about boundaries and limits in fashion. Balmain has its place in fashion."

And the clothes? "There is a lot of fluidity. A lot of knitwear, lightness, ponchos. No body-con dresses. But whatever I do, even if I cover up my girls, it is like people can say I am ******. So this is what it is. I think there is nothing ******. I think it is really chic. I think it is really French. It is how I see Paris. And I have had too many haters during the last three years to defend myself again. So, this is Balmain." And then the show began.

Star endorsements

Under Rousteing, Balmain has become the most controversial fashion house in Paris. Rousteing has attracted (but not bought, as other, far bigger houses do) patronage from contemporary culture's most significant influencers. Rihanna, all the Kardashians, Kanye West, Taylor Swift, Miley Cyrus, Beyoncé, Justin Bieber – a royal flush of modern celebrity aristocracy – all champion him.

Immediately after this show, in that backstage hubbub, Kim Kardashian told me: "I thought it was very powerful…I loved the sequins, and I loved all the big chain mail belts – that was probably my favourite."

Yet for every famous fan there is a member of the fashion establishment who will sniff over coffee in Le Castiglione that Rousteing's crowd is declassé and his aesthetic best described by that V-word. The New York Times' fashion critic Vanessa Friedman reckoned this collection appropriate for "dressing for the captain's dinners on a cruise ship to Fantasy Island". At least she did not use the V-word. When I once deployed it – as a compliment – in a 2015 Vogue menswear review that declared "Rousteing is confidently negotiating a fine line between extravagance and vulgarity", I was told that Rous­teing was aggrieved.

The fashion world's ambivalence towards Rousteing is a measure of its conflicted feelings towards much in contemporary culture. Last year Robin Givhan of the Washington Post wrote of Balmain: "The French fashion house is always ostentatious and sometimes ******. It feeds a voracious appetite for attention. It is anti-intellectual. Antagonistic. Emotional. It is shocking. It is perfect for this era of social media, which means it is powerfully, undeniably relevant."

Since joining Instagram four years ago Rousteing has posted 4000 images and won 4 million followers. The combined reach of his audience members and models at this Balmain show was greater than the population of Britain and France combined. Balmain was the first French fashion house to gain more than 1 million followers, and currently has 5.5 million of them.

Loving his haters

As digital technology disrupts fashion, Balmain's seemingly effortless mastery of the medium galls some. Last year, the designer posted an image of a comment from a ****** follower to his feed. It read: "Olivier Rousteing spends more times taking selfies for Instagram than designing clothes for Balmain." Underneath, in block capitals, he commented "i love my haters".

Rousteing can be funny and flip – doing a video interview after the show, I opened by asking, tritely, how he felt. He replied: "Now I feel like some Chicken McNuggets with barbecue sauce, and then some M&M;'s ice cream."

When at work, however, that flipness flips to entirely unflip. The previous evening, at a final fitting for the collection, Rousteing had paced his studio, his face a scowl of concentration, applying final edits to the outfits to be worn by models Doutzen Kroes and Alessandra Ambrosio. The 30-strong team of couturiers working in the adjoining atelier delivered a steady stream of altered dresses.

"We are ready," he said from behind a glass desk in a rare moment of downtime. "This a big show – 80 looks – and I want a collection that is full of both the commercial and couture. But it's smooth too. All of the girls are excited about the after-party and interested in the music. And eating pizza." In the corridor outside Gigi Hadid – this season's apex supermodel – was indeed eating pizza, with gusto.

The fitting went on until far beyond midnight; Rousteing, fiercely focused, demonstrated the work ethic for which he is famous. When he was studio manager for Christophe Decarnin, his predecessor at Balmain, the young then-unknown was always the first in and last out of the studio. Emmanuel Diemoz, who joined Balmain as finance controller in 2001 and became chief executive in 2011, says that his hard graft was one of the reasons he was chosen to succeed Decarnin.

"For sure it was quite a gamble," says Diemoz. "But we could see the talent of Olivier. Plus he understood the work of Christophe – who had helped the brand recover – so he represented continuity. He was a hard worker, clearly a leader, with a lot of creativity. Plus the size of the turnover at that time was not so huge. So we were able to take the risk."

Clear leader

Which is why, aged 24, Rousteing became the creative director of one of Paris's best known – but indubitably faded – fashion houses. In 2004 it had been close to bankruptcy. In 2012, Rousteing's first full year in charge, Balmain's sales were €30.4 million and its profit €3.1 million. In 2015, sales were €121.5 million and its profit €33 million. Vulgarity is subjective; numbers are not.

Rousteing, who is of mixed race, was adopted at five months by white parents and enjoyed an affluent and loving upbringing in Bordeaux. "My mum is an optician and my dad was running the port. They are both really scientific – not artistic. So I had that kind of life. Bordeaux is really bourgeois and really conservative, I have to say."

After an ill-starred three-month stint at law school – "I was doing international law. And I was like, 'oh my God, that is so boring'" – he did a fashion course that he managed to tolerate for five months.

"I found that really boring as well. I just don't like actually people who are trying to **** your dream. And I felt that is what my teachers were trying to do."

Obsessed with Gucci

Following a three-month internship in Rome – "also boring" – Rousteing became fascinated with Tom Ford's work at Gucci. "I was obsessed, obsessed, obsessed. Sometimes the press did not get it but I thought 'this is like genius, the new **** chic'. Obsessed, full stop."

He wanted to work there – "that was my dream" – but applied to every fashion house he could, and found an opportunity to intern at Roberto Cavalli. "They took me in from the beginning. I met Peter Dundas [then womenswear designer at the brand] and he said you are going to be my right hand – and start in four days."

Rousteing counts his five years in Italy as formative both creatively and commercially, but when the opportunity came to return to France in 2009 he leapt at it. "Christophe said he liked my work and that he needed someone to manage the studio. So two weeks later I was here. I loved Balmain at the time, when Christophe was in charge. It was all about rock 'n' roll chic, ****, Parisian. And he was appealing to a younger generation. You can see when brands become old but Balmain was touching this new audience. I always say Christophe's Balmain was Kate Moss but mine is Rihanna."

When Decarnin left and Rousteing replaced him, the response was a resounding "who?". His youth prompted some to anticipate failure.

"It was not easy at all. Every season I had the same questions." Furthermore, Rousteing (who has said he thinks of himself as neither black nor white) was the only non-white chief designer at a Parisian couture house. In a nation in which very few people of colour hold senior positions, his race may have contributed both to the establishment's suspicion of him and to his powerful sense of being an outsider.

'Beautiful spirit'

As he began to build a personal vernacular of close-fitted, heavily jewelled, gleefully grandiose menswear – fantastical uniform for a Rousteing-imagined gilded age – for both women and men, that V-word loomed.

"They asked, 'But is it luxury? Is it chic? Is it modern?' All those kinds of words. But you know there is no one definition [of fashion] even if people in Paris think there is. And, I'm sorry, but I think the crowd in fashion are those who understand the least what is avant-garde today."

In 2013 Rihanna visited the studio, met Rousteing, and reported all with multiple Instagram posts. "You are the most beautiful spirit, so down to earth and kind! @olivier_rousteing I think I'm in love!!! #Balmain." :')"

Rousteing met Kim Kardashian at a party in New York – they were drawn together, he recalls, because they were both shy – and was promptly invited to lunch with her family in Los Angeles.

An outsider in the firmament of old-guard Paris fashion, Rousteing was earning insider status within a new, and much more influential, supranational elite. He points out that Valentino, Saint Laurent and Pierre Balmain himself "were close to the jet set of their time. What I have on my front row is the people who inspire my generation".

From them, he learned a new way of doing business. "I think it was Rihanna and the music industry that first understood how Instagram can be part of the business world as well as the personal. But in fashion? When we started it was 'why do you post selfies? Why do we need to know your life, see you waking up, see you working? Why don't you keep it private'. And I was like 'you will see'."

Rousteing cheerfully declares his love for Facetune – "I don't have Botox but I do have digital Botox!" – an app that helps him airbrush his selfies and tweak those ski-***** cheekbones.

Reaching new population

From his office around the corner from Rousteing's, Diemoz adds: "When Olivier first proposed Balmain use social media, our investment in traditional media was costing a lot. Here was an alternative costing less but bringing huge visibility. It has been successful, quite rapidly…we decided to be less Parisian in a way but to speak to a new population. A brand has to be built around its heritage but we are proposing a new form of communication dedicated to a wider group of customers."

The impact of that strategy became apparent in 2015, when Rousteing and Balmain were invited to design a collection for the Swedish fast-fashion retailer H&M.; Within minutes of going on sale – and this is not hyperbole – the collection, available at vastly cheaper prices than Balmain-proper, had completely sold out. In London, customers fought on the pavement outside H&M;'s Regent Street branch. "Balmainia!" blared the headlines.

You have to move fast to get backstage after a Balmain show. I was out of my seat and trotting with purpose even before the string-heavy orchestra at the end of the catwalk had quite stopped playing Adele.

Rousteing had taken his bow merely seconds before. Still, too slow: I ended up in a clot of Rousteing well-wishers stuck in a corridor blocked by security guards. A Middle Eastern woman against whom I was indelicately jammed looked at me, laughed, shook her head, then said: "We pay millions for a fashion house – and then this happens!"

In June, Balmain was bought for a reported €485 million by Mayhoola, a Qatar-based wealth fund said to be controlled by the nation's ruling family. As so often with Rousteing-related revelations, some declared themselves nonplussed. "Why Would Mayhoola Pay Such a High Price for Balmain?", one headline asked. Yet Mayhoola, which acquired Valentino four years previously for $US858 million, might have scored a bargain.

Clothes key to revenue

Despite its huge, Instagram-enhanc­ed footprint, Balmain is a small, lean and relatively undeveloped business. Most luxury fashion houses today – Chanel, Burberry, Dior, et al – will emphasise their catwalk collections for marketing purposes but make most of their money from the sale of accessories, fragrances and small leather goods like handbags and shoes. One of the big fashion companies makes a mere 5 per cent from its catwalk clothes.

At Balmain, by contrast, clothes bring in almost all the revenues. If Balmain had the same clothes-to-accessories ratio as its competitors, its overall annual income could be more than €1 billion ($1.4 billion).

The company is moving in that direction. New accessory lines are in the pipeline. "Now we have to transform that desire into business activity," said Diemoz. "Sunglasses, belts, fragrances, the kind of products that can be more affordable."

The first bags should be available in January, as will a wider range of shoes, and then more, more, more.

Six days after his show, on the last day of Paris Fashion Week, I returned to the Balmain atelier. Apart from two assistants, Rousteing was the only person there – everybody else had gone on holiday to recover from the frenzy of preparing the show, or was busy selling the collection at the showroom around the corner.

Rousteing sat behind his desk in the empty room, wearing slingback leopard-print slippers, sweatpants and shades. "I am not even tired! I am excited. Because there are so many things happening – and I can't wait."Read more at:www.marieaustralia.com/red-carpet-celebrity-dresses | http://www.marieaustralia.com/formal-dresses-adelaide
The Hadid
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Daughters of the river
judy smith Sep 2016
Paris has traditionally been the city where inter­national designers – from Australia and England to Beirut and Japan – opt to unveil their collections. However, Karen Ruimy, who is behind the Kalmar label, chose the runways of Milan Fashion Week for her debut showcase in September.

The Morocco-born, London- based designer hosted an intimate al fresco event in a private palazzo to launch her holiday line of fine cotton and silk jumpsuits, breezy kaftans, long skirts, playsuits and off-the-shoulder tops in tropical prints.

Ruimy had a career in finance before moving into the arts – she owns a museum of photography in Marrakech – and has become increasingly involved in fashion and beauty, thanks to her personal interest in holistic therapies.

These are clothes, she explains, that marry luxury and wellness, and are the things she would wear when she wants quality time by herself. The fact that they are made in Italy, convinced her that Milan was the right place for her debut – where she showed alongside the likes of Gucci, Prada, Verscae and Marni.

On fashion calendars, Milan has conventionally been the place where the runways confirm the trends and themes hinted at ­earlier, in New York and London. However, this season, the Italian designers did not speak with one voice, making Milan Fashion Week all the more refreshing for it.

Often, there might be an era or style of design that dominates the runways during a particular season, but for spring/summer 2017 in Milan, there was a standout showing of techno sportswear and techno fabrics employed in updated classics such as coats and box-pleat skirts, or with references to north African and Native American themes.

The Italian designers sent looks that would appeal to everyone, from the haute bohemian and athletic woman, to the cool sophisticate and the art crowd, as well as – as in the case of Moschino – to the iPhone generation.

Only three seasons ago, Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele was lauded for his complicated maximalist styling. Yet in Milan, Gucci channelled a dreamlike vibe with Victoriana, denim, athletic apparel and oversized accessories, thrown together in delightful chaos, making it difficult to predict the direction Michele is taking Gucci in.

Currently he seems to be in a holding pattern, hovering at once over 1940s Hollywood glamour, 1970s flared pantsuits, and ruffled party dresses from the 1980s, in a cacophony of ­colours and fabrics.

The feeling of joyous madness continued at Dolce & Gabbana, where street dancers emerged from the audience to start the party in the designers’ tropical-themed show. The clothes used some of their familiar tropes, such as military jackets, corseted black-lace dresses miniskirts. New, however, were the baggy tapering trousers redolent of jodhpurs, and the lavish and detailed embellishment the designers used to sell their story.

Wanderlust dominated the moodboards at Roberto Cavalli – rich patterns, embroidery and patchworks inspired by Native Americans – and Etro with its ­tribal themes on kaftans, duster coats and Berber-style capes.

Giorgio Armani, Agnona Tod’s, Bottega Veneta and Salvatore Ferragamo – with its stylish twisted leather dresses and crisp athletic sportswear designed by newcomer Fulvio Rigoni – all answered the call of women who want stylish but undemanding clothes.

Marni would appeal to the art world for its graceful, pioneering ideas. The label’s finely pleated dresses displayed a life of their own, and its micro-printed dresses were gathered, folded and distorted to walk the line between stylish and quirky.

In contrast, the sportswear at MaxMara and Donatella Versace targeted the dynamic generation of athletic women, with sleek leggings, belted jackets, power suits and anoraks. Versace has made it clear that she thinks this is the only way forward. She may be right, but there’s always room for the myriad styles displayed at Milan Fashion Week in all our wardrobes.

It was feathers with everything at Prada. Silk pyjamas, boldly coloured and mixed checks, cardigans and wrap skirts with Velcro fasteners show Miuccia Prada reinventing the classics. Most glamorous was the series of evening dresses and pyjamas with jewelled embroidery and feathers, worn with kitten heels that married sporty straps with heaps of crystals. Prada’s must-have bag of the season is a bold clutch with a long strap fastener, that comes in a multitude of geometric and daisy patterns.

Versace

Over the past three seasons, Donatella Versace has been carving out a new image for her brand – a shift from the luxe glam of red carpets and superyachts, although the inhabitants of that world will be sure to buy into the new Versace vibe. Donatella’s girls are both glamorous and empowered. The sporty look is tough, urban and energetic, judging by the billowing ultra-thin high-tech nylon parkas and blousons, stirrup trousers and dresses (the shapes of which are manipulated by drawstrings). Dresses, skirts and tops are spliced at angles and studded together. Swishy pleated dresses and silky slit skirts gave energy when in movement, and were as soft as the look got.

Bottega Veneta

Model Gigi Hadid and veteran actress Lauren Hutton walked arm in arm down the Bottega Veneta runway, illustrating the breadth of the Italian maison in Tomas Maier’s hands. This was a double celebration of the Bottega’s 50th ­anniversary and Maier’s 15th as its creative director. Menswear and womenswear were combined, and the focus was on easy, elegant clothes in luxurious materials, such as ostrich, crocodile and lamb skin for coats; easy knits and cotton dresses worn with antique-style silver jewellery; and wedge heels. Fifteen handbag styles debuted along with 15 from the archive.

Fendi

Silvia Venturini’s new Kan handbag was a star turn at Milan. The stud-lock bag dotted with candy-coloured studs, rosette embroidery and floral ribbons couldn’t help but charm every woman in the audience. It was the perfect joyful accessory for Karl Lagerfeld’s feminine vintage romp through the wardrobe of Marie Antoinette, with sugary colours, bows, big apron skirts and crisp white embroidery juxtaposed with sporty footballer-stripe tops – effectively updating a historical look.Read more at:http://www.marieaustralia.com/formal-dresses | www.marieaustralia.com/red-carpet-celebrity-dresses
Anais Vionet Dec 2022
Gigi Hadid wore pearls, a t-shirt and jeans to Paris fashion week. So, our (Lisa, Leeza and my) theme for this New Year’s Eve is “Jeans and pearls.” To be accurate, Gigi’s distressed, slouchy bottom, boyfriend jeans were embroidered with pearls - the pearls weren’t worn as a necklace - but Lisa and I think anything involving embroidery is a trailer-park trend - so we’ll be wearing strings of pearls. If Karen (Lisa and Leeza’s mom) lets us, that is.

Karen has four strings of Tiffany pearls - called Essential, Ziegfeld, Akoya and South Sea Noble. They’re all 16-inch, single strand strings (which we all prefer) and they range in value from $600 (the Akoya) to the expensive (South Sea Noble) string - that she won’t lend anyone. The good news is, if anyone is thinking of buying me a string of pearls, I can’t tell the difference between the cheap string and the expensive string.

Leeza (Lisa’s 13-year-old sister) wants to be included in EVERYTHING this year, which is funny because last year she either attacked us or completely ignored us. This year, Leeza has a thirteen-year-old’s razor-sharp instincts and relentless curiosity.

As we’re Planning New Year’s Eve, Ethan Bortnick’s song, “Engraving” was playing. It’s a crazy song with middle-school, EMO, angsty vibes. One of the lines of the song is “strip for me”. As the song ends, Leeza suddenly asks us, “Have you two ever been to a *******?”
“No”, I answered.
Lisa said, “Once.”
“What?!” I asked.
“Really?” Leeza gasped, “Spill!” She demanded.
“This has random context,” Lisa begins, “I’ve been inside a ******* once in my life.”
Leeza and I tittered nervously. “I’m scared,” Leeza said, as an aside, grinning and rubbing her hands on her knees, clearly more delighted than scared.
“I was attending a middle school, Model UN conference, at Brown University,” Lisa continued, “and they took all the kids to a ******* for their model UN social.”
I gasped and blurted “There’s NO way this happened.”
“Yes,” Lisa insisted, “you can ask my mom.” she said, with a serious look, “And, and obviously, it was rented out for the night, but they didn’t, like, think to take away any of the normal features. There weren’t any strippers, but they didn’t take the poles down and they didn’t turn off the multiple TV screens on all the walls that were playing their normal rotating video content.”
“Wow,” I said, with my hand over my mouth. Meanwhile, Leeza was chortling like a mad woman and rocking back and forth.
“Everyone walked in,” Lisa went on, “and it was just middle schoolers, thirteen years old. There were pictures of the dancers on the poles, and our history teacher came in, and freaked OUT, saying, “Oh, no, No, NO!” Because it was a school event, we had taken school buses there, it was a boondoggle. They turned us all around and hustled us out of there.”
Leeza had stood up and was twirling with glee. Middle schoolers live for chaos.
“Taken out of context,” I said, “It was crazy you went to a ******* in middle school.”
“It was a jump scare, for sure,” Lisa confirmed, “we went from one vibe, a school field trip, to a *******.”

Anyway, for New Year’s, a lot is still up in the air - undecided - but we’re determined that we want to have a blast. We’re young and we want to support bad ***** energy (BBE).
“Oh, I have a BBE song!” Lisa squeals, “Mafiosa!” (by Nathy Peluso) She names it as it begins playing.

The songs in Spanish and when it ended, I’d looked up the lyrics because my 2 years of Spanish weren’t good enough. I tell Leeza the lyrics go: “Let the bad men fear me, when I arrive in my car - they speed off.”
“Yes!” Lisa Laughs, “We don’t drive - but, YES!”
“Emotionally,” I say, laughing too. “But verse two asks the great question, “What the frack is wrong with men when it comes to women?”
“It’s,” Lisa started, looking up and searching for words, “SUCH a timeless question.”
“Why’d you pick that song?” Leeza asked.
Lisa chuckled,” Because you don’t get more BBE than a female Mafiosa killer.”

Update: Karen agreed that as long as Charles is with us (and really, when isn’t he with us?), we can borrow the three inexpensive pearl strings (worth about 5k). So, I’ll be wearing the Akoya pearls, an Anna Molinari white, basic, cotton-shirt, washed denim cropped jeans with white bridal flats and Lisa and Leeza will wear their own, white tops, jeans, flats and pearls and we’ll be on-theme.

Happy New Year’s Everyone!
BLT Marriam Webster word of the day challenge: Boondoggle: a wasteful activity involving public money or labor.
judy smith Feb 2017
In this age of global uncertainty, clothes have become a kind of panacea for a growing number of consumers. Designers are responding to the political upheavals of the past year by injecting some much-needed humour into women’s wardrobes. Browns CEO Holli Rogers is already predicting that spring’s sartorial hit will be Rosie Assoulin’s smiley-face T-shirt. This cheery number, which reads "Thank you! Have a Nice Day!’" neatly sums up the jubilant mood of the coming season.

The logic goes that turning up the dial on the fun, the colourful and the crazy is the sartorial equivalent of Michelle Obama’s "when they go low, we go high" mantra. We may not be able to control the chaos of world events, but we still rule our own style.

It’s no coincidence that a cartoonish aesthetic, of the sort you’d find if you rifled through an eccentric child’s dressing-up box, was in plentiful supply on the spring/summer 2017 runways. Alessandro Michele’s army of Gucci geeks displayed growing swagger in garish get-ups that ran from fuzzy crayon-coloured furs featuring zebras to tiered, tinsel-y coats that rivalled Grandma’s Christmas tree.

It was a similar story at Dolce & Gabbana, where sumptuous eveningwear was loaded with pasta and pizza motifs, and drums became bags, while Marc Jacobs tore a page from a psychedelic colouring book, covering clothes with the childlike scrawl of the London illustrator Julie Verhoeven. Even ardent minimalists would have to admit that these playful looks have potent pick-me-up power.

For Anya Hindmarch – whose empire is built on feel-good fashion – all this frivolity is nothing new. "An ironic, lighter and more irreverent approach has always been my thing. People love beautiful objects and increasingly, they want to show their character – that’s the point of fashion," she says. "Customers today are more confident with their style. There aren’t so many rules. It’s about putting a sticker on a beautiful handbag and not being too precious about it."

What’s surprising is who is consuming this cartoonish style. Though there’s no real rhyme or reason, says Hindmarch, often it’s older clients who are investing in the maddest pieces – like her cuddly, googly-eyed Ghost backpack that has also been spotted on Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner.

The same is true of the customer for the Lebanese designer Mira Mikati’s emoji-embellished styles. Though her fans run from twenty to fiftysomethings, at a recent London pop-up one of Mikati’s most ardent buyers was an 87-year-old. "She tells me that whenever she wears my clothes people stop her on the street. They smile. They start conversations. She literally makes friends through what she wears."

Mikati began her career as a buyer, co-founding the upscale Beirut boutique Plum, before launching her own line some four seasons ago – largely out of frustration at the sameness of the mainstream collections. "I wanted to create something fun and colourful but easy to wear – that you can add to jeans and a white T-shirt, but that’s also a conversation point."

Her clothes, worn by Beyoncé and Rihanna, are certainly that: pink parrot-appliquéd trench coats, scribble-print hooded tops and dresses clad with a family of monsters who spell out her Peter Pan ethos in scrawled speech bubbles that read "Never Grow Up’" The antithesis of normcore, these designs take their cue from her children’s toy trunk and the Japanese pop art of Takashi Murakami – who returned the compliment by donning one of her patched bombers.

Mikati is clearly onto something. According to Roberta Benteler, who founded online fashion emporium Avenue 32 in 2011, it’s the cartoon aesthetic that’s really piquing women’s desire right now.

"Anything that looks like a child’s drawing or a toy sells incredibly well," she says. "Brands like Mira Mikati, Vivetta and Les Petits Joueurs inspire the impulse to buy because they’re so eye-catching. You have to have it now because there’s a sense you won’t find it anywhere else."

The exponential rise of street-style stars and the social-media machine that now propels the fashion industry also plays a part in the popularity of these playful looks.

"Designers are creating for the online world and customer," continues Benteler, who cites the Middle Eastern consumer as a big investor in these niche eccentric designs. "People find escapism in fashion and more than ever they need something to cheer them up. These are clothes that stand out on Instagram, and for designers that translates into sales."

In practical terms, in an effort to beat the warp speed of high-street copying, designers are differentiating themselves with increasingly intricate and artisanal styles that are harder to mimic. Just because these pieces have a childlike sensibility doesn’t mean they’re not beautifully crafted.

"My aim is create a handbag that you can keep as a design piece," explains the accessories designer Paula Cademartori. One of her most successful designs – the Petite Faye bag, which comes in a whole rainbow of configurations – takes more than 32 hours to create at her Italian studio. "Even if the styles are colourful and speak loudly, they’re still sophisticated," says Cademartori, whose brand was recently snapped up by the luxury goods group OTB. It can pay to be playful.

One man with a unique insight into the feel-good phenomenon is Marco de Vincenzo, who combines his longstanding role as leather goods head designer at Fendi with creating his own collection. "When we first created the Fendi monster accessories for bags we were simply playing around," he says of the charms that still loom large some three years on. "The most successful designs are created without pressure, through play."

His own-line debut bag features an animalistic paw. ‘It’s about creating something new and different for women to discover,’ he explains. "You buy something because you love it, not because you need it. Fashion is like a game – it has to excite."

When it comes to distilling this childlike abandon into your wardrobe, take cues from super style blogger Leandra Medine, who balances madcap pieces, such as her first collection of colourful footwear under her MR By Man Repeller label, with plainer, simpler ones. "It’s all about wearing your clothes with joy, and having fun, but not looking ridiculous," says Cademartori. "You don’t want to look like an actual cartoon."

It’s advice that chimes with that of Anya Hindmarch. "I love the idea of wearing a super-simple Comme des Garçons jacket and a white shirt with a really fun bag to mess it all up a bit." It’s a failsafe formula for dressing your way to happiness.Read more at:http://www.marieaustralia.com/formal-dresses | www.marieaustralia.com/red-carpet-celebrity-dresses
David Ehrgott Feb 2016
Is Gigi Hadid a gee, hottie?
Johnny Noiπ Nov 2018
night: noche, nighttime love, amor, cariño, amado, querido, afición, vida

I am a lawyer, Jesus, Jesus IJKA This image came from the cold winter night of Robert Kennedy's Science in the Astrophobic Garden of the Moon and the Christian Religion and the Physical Sciences of Google, Tonyio; the body was removed; the power of green, the corrector of Tret, titanium and you. The need for a page taken from this book conference, men and women, young and human, as well as Robert Brown, Nimomo, prisoner of the family of a prisoner, and ten administrations of West-West Radio to reform the terms of Yichimini. Igor West Wujian, numerator of steps J c The Chinese dog is the agent of natural stone, which stands vertically. "The seal of the fearsome angel of Sicily", the intelligent and dark mixture of intervention of dreams "," We can move from one city to another "and cities and cities in flames and potential opportunities, a black child White was in a fire and other animals in the world title, smoke and smoke and in the mountains and they were damaged and healthy and a child, the child's lamb, had a fever: in the abdomen, its wind, at night, George The sky, an Arch, future judges, Russian strollers and rabbits in Russia are a fruit. A secondary school, Russia and Latin America are born a little embarrassed in the mother's womb, among them the ugly English wind, Ness is wrong in both. The birth of a child, a friend of a friend, a star friend of the star of the wall and the wall with the ancient Hebrew book, Google Snooch, the report of the staff of the Canadian Robert E., the Norwegian poet Igor Robot North Road, Thomas G. Irder Love and everyone at the noche of the summer. Meet Gloria's Elevator - Young people and Christians - Democrats and Google: The Greek lizard, Tonynio. Green Tharif Satyat is equipped with Cicero, Masons, Freemasons, Merry Christmas, Merry Swimmer, Robert and ****, French Amino Acids. Lenin died, Igor Cohen son of Allie and Hadid. "Child" for the image and children's image for the Hebrew word "Medal" on the street. "Black Devil" is crazy in the middle of the month. "People will be so simple that forests will take the world to the greenhouse and they will grow." And the history of the police, their parents, the black star, were all exposed to the open air like a seemingly yellow night's peace, air, night, coffee, eyes. - The region of homosexual marriages of young African-Americans without the price of peace, the House of Representatives of the parties of Leopard Fashion from the north of Russia. Counting the actual number of Christian women who read at school, Mary's Star is a radio station broadcasting the Asomov Games from the moon.
judy smith Sep 2016
Jonathan Saunders, the newly appointed presumptive heir to DVF, paid homage to the brand's heritage while showcasing his own vision during an intimate presentation Sunday at New York Fashion Week.

The Scottish designer took the reins as DVF's chief creative officer in May, but made it clear he's not necessarily filling Diane von Furstenberg's iconic shoes.

"It's just different shoes, you know? It's not like I'm replacing her in any way. It's just a different chapter for the company," Saunders said while insisting von Furstenberg is still very much the cornerstone of the brand.

Von Furstenberg, a Fashion Week staple, was not on hand for Saunders' debut presentation at a sparse industrial space in the Manhattan's Meatpacking District.

The collection played with bold colors, patterns and mixed textures.

Romantic florals paired with playful polka dots, and metallic dresses were adorned with fur wraps.

"I wanted the collection to be kind of this melting ***," Saunders explained. "Eclectic mixtures of different prints from different places and times brought together in one collection. I thought that was kind of an exciting way to start."

The signature wrap dress appeared throughout with fresh silhouettes and asymmetrical hemlines, including a structured kimono, a silky romper and a color-blocked scarf dress.

Sometimes the wrap was simply implied through cuts and movement on plunging blouses and sequined, layered frocks.

"It's more about taking it not so literally and just trying to transfer into a product that feels considered and modern and developed. A lot of the bias-cut dresses still have that same sense of ease, but they are pushing things forward," said Saunders.

Von Furstenberg is known for splashy fashion shows featuring celebrity-driven social media buzz. Last season's event included It Girls Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, Karlie Kloss and Irina Shayk.

But according to CEO Paolo Riva, priorities have shifted.

"I think that the fashion show is trying to cover too many things: speaking to press, inviting celebrities, opinion leaders, bloggers and friends, and now see-now, buy-now. It's too much for one moment and because this is the first collection from Jonathan, this is a moment where we really wanted to have the opportunity to leave the noise out," said Riva.

Saunders' back-to-basics approach included one-on-one meetings with journalists, a simple display of clothes on racks with six models perched in the background.

"I think at the end of the day the customer is interested in clothes and I'm hoping we're entering into a chapter where all of the nonsense doesn't matter as much as having something that you just feel fabulous in," he said.Read more at:http://www.marieaustralia.com/formal-dresses-brisbane | www.marieaustralia.com/vintage-formal-dresses
Johnny Noiπ Nov 2018
He was a fiscal lawyer, Jesus, Jesus IJKA The image of the cold night came from the winter night of science; Robert Kennedy has also been deposed to the astrophobic gardens of the moon and the Christian religions and the physical sciences of Google, Tonya's body; Powers green, Sutter Tret in titanium and you need a page taken from the conference books, men and women, young and human as well as Robert Brown, Nimomo; Prisoner of an imprisoned family; ten governments of Western Radio readjust Yeješimini's words. Igor's western Wujian, pedometer of JC's dog; China is a natural stone agent, vertically maintained. "Seal the fearsome angel of Sicily" An intelligent and dark mixture of dream intervention "," we can move from one city to another "And cities and cities in flames and potential opportunities, a black child in a fire and other animals in the titles of the world, smoke and smoke were in the mountain, and they were damaged and sounded, and a child, lambs of the child, had a fever: you in the belly, the wind, in the night, George the sky, an arc. the judges who are in the future, the Russian rickshaw and the hare in Russia; a fruit in secondary school, Russia and Latin America are little embarrassed. We were born in the womb, not the ugly Englishman of strong wind, the French would be wrong in both. For example The birthday of a child, a friend of a friend, a friend of the star star wall wall and wall with the ancient Hebrew book Baloo Google Snooch the personal rights of the Canadian rights Robert the German poet Igor Natural robot North Road, Thomas Girder Love and the whole world in nature meet in the summer night. Elevator Gloria - Youth, and Christians - Democrats and Google: the Greek crocodile, Tonya. Green Tharif equipped through Satyat Cicero, Freemason Mason, good Christmas swimmer, Robert and Wangfrenichi Nimimo. Mohican Igor are Lemidid, son of the Lord, Hadid ten. The "child" for the image and the image of the child for the Hebrew word "medal" on the street. "Satan a black girl" crazy in the middle of the moon. "People will be very simple so that forests and forests, making the world, enter the greenhouse and grow." And the history of the police, their parents, the black stars, all exposed to the open air was born as a peace visibly yellow and yellow of the color of the night air, air, night, coffee, eyes. - homosexual marriage zone of young African-Americans without peace price of peace, the House of Representatives of leopard fashion Parties of the North Russia Russia Counting the number of the true school of reading of Christian women, Mary is the star of a station's radio broadcast of the game, Astrophobe from the moon.
Johnny Noiπ Dec 2018
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Visual kei (Japanese: ヴィジュアル系 Hepburn: Vijuaru Kei, lit. "Visual Style" or "Visual System") is a movement among Japanese musicians, that is characterized by the use of varying levels of make-up, elaborate hair styles and flamboyant costumes, often, but not always, coupled with androgynous aesthetics similar to Western glam rock
Maxi Dec 2017
I say why can't I be like her,
a supermodel...
like Gigi Hadid,
He says she's hot,
his words say,
I am pretty,
just pretty,
Gigi, living the life, dancing, walking the runway, dating Zayn,
but what do I get,
I get words to put in my head,
you're not hot,
she's hot, fuckable
Everything a guy wants,
I'm the second choice to every situation,
All he says when I say her name is...
she's hot,
Boys will be boys they say,
but I want a man.
Poem 19
19.05.2016,

Explanatory poems with paid advertising included
Facebook, 21.44 scrolling back to 22.24


far away
buzzing
displaying myself and
things alone.

stereotyping
while mocking
stereotypes

a guy named by a famous poet
took pictures of me
somebody pays me to be and so I am in
this
landscape.

I paid the new God to advertise here.
21 of your friends like God,
his digital skills
In my online
free courses.

The burden of too much, I say.
Simplifying childhood may
protect us against mental health issues.
Raised well.
This life hurts
the bright side of me
I no longer have patience for.
Please, somebody give me a lemon
Just in case.

I feel sick of him
talking about bribery
but I eat news.
Arterial pressure.
How not to…it’s almost a miracle.

A fox is licking a screen.
falling in love with foxes.
it's funny that
my favourite place to see
my own photos is
a radio station,
at least so
far: a
military footprint.

Saltwater battery
can power your off the grid home
for 10 years. My dear, I
love you! Your daddy loves you. I’m sorry I
was trying to do something I
am writing it now
so I
can make myself heard.
Herd
live politics.
my life seems rich and unhappy
for a reason.

I’m El. so I paid
and I’m here.
Gigi Hadid analogy
with curves.

An image stuffed with birds.
Flying. Eating. Flamingo.
Wow.
I share memories.
Of my life. I
live from my memories. I
eat them. Insights
that become reality
thanks to people
they get a super network,
with generosity.
I work.
Tragedy happened.

Sold out
I support
victims of ‬fire.
There will be no fish in the ocean
in less than 40 years.
What is in essence
the difference between
the USSR
and
Germany during World War II
As a very witty response
to popular safety myths.
I should let my kid do at least 5
dangerous things.
Hopper.
I see pictures of
overpopulation and overconsumption
Tamara in Beverly Hills
advertising herself and her paintings
in black and white.

I’m new Y. I paid to be here.
Like me.
Subscribe and
get 12 weeks for just $12.
Plus, get a free tote bag.

Happiness is
reading a book
Drinking tea
I acknowledge somebody wrote
something about
what I imagine I successfully perform
so I’m writing
something about
making a popcorn live show.
Artists. Celebrities.
Love. Amazing.
It’s so great these people exist
so I can share
words of wisdom and beauty
A selfie of
my mom.
I put flowers in her hair.
Kids are educated in centers
meanwhile
Somebody important with
a name
we all know
once said
something
significant
so
I’m posting it here.
Poem, part of the project "Seven Poems of Cristina Irian."
Johnny Noiπ Nov 2018
Night night night night night winter winter
winter's cold star is golden, golden sunset's
sun sun sun sunlight salt light alternative belly
garden garden beauty garden outside outside
the astrophobic moon Jesus Jesus IJKA Russian
photo feminism Robert Kennedy is the law
of the world - persistent taxpayer, lawyer,
Christian right and Google, Greek Robotics,
Tonyio Teacher, Green Tariff, Mr. Sutra TRETA
Titan, the owner of the Brown Photo, They are
the Freemasons, Theatrically Attached young men
welcomed the kenidiyeni baby book, Robert
Jung fereniši Costa, Nimomo Hmong and their
families locked daughter said rail, parent
radios ten-war spear Yeješimini lyrics
Igor Ltd. J. Making a Proof of Natural Protein
US Consumers Protestant Vermicelli Stone
Moving a Pedestrian Dog Fujian
China's back batteries take control of the surface
of Oriental conditions. As in court proceedings,
"an invisible Angel of the Sun Sigil James"
dreams of a nightmare when the turtle is painted,
when the turtle feels like "House Wars"
The Dream of "Dark White" Dreams How
to Drive the Community "Meddle" A general
introduction to the image of the child, S consecutive
Hebrew e. Satan is a black woman in a fire flame.
It is easy to search for people; Disintegrated
groups of the forest, glory of the world,
burst in the bush. She discovers with a smoke
and is lost. In fact, the Muslim police has worn
the muscles of baby, baby, bright stars, all the
necessary muscular mother and city boy flowers
and fire muscles and peacemakers, yellow or yellow
yellow night night, yellow air night coffee coffee
heart face queen sky earth Georgian future woman
poet beauty christian bad room york mid lost *** go
find Russia house ghost July age food garden problems
prostitutes Russian school art little example number
born shadow woman Jesus state year drinking hell
Latin senior brown hand high wind real goddess
image full name golden french snooch baby book
baloo ghost Canada holy *** Robert Germany think
human kids call day moon boy friend star's dead dream
woman father radio ree wall old street reading
Christ's poetry Igor's robot nature google song side
room truth Jews gentleman times hard word better
happy, I agree with Thomas wild game nords
in the northern night, night, night, winter, winter,
winter, winter, I love the world - teens, lawyers,
Christian Law and Google, Greek Robotics, Tonyia.
Teacher of Green Tariffs, Satyat Terence Tintin,
Freemason owner of Brown's photo, Freestyle's
teenage boy received Kenyan Christmas bonus,
Robert Wangfrenichi, Nimimo Mohan and her babies
joined their daughter Hadid, Parent Radio Ten
Armies Army Genjutsu Igor ltd. Confirmation
of Protein Proteins US American Consumers Protestant
Vermicelli Stone Moving Pedestrian China battery
chargers control the Orientals of the Far East.
As the process unfolds, "The Imagination" is a picture
of the child, the image of the child, the image "Medal",
a Hebrew continent of the world. E: "The impossible
dream of the eclipse" Satan is a black woman in a fire.
The search for humans is simple: the group
of grasshoppers, the world of glory, was created
in the bush. She goes up in smoke and is lost. In fact,
Muslim police officers are in the womb of the child,
the child's baby, the bright stars, all the necessary
muscular and masculine city flowers and the vents
and peace clothes, the yellow or the yellow night air,
the air, the air at night, the coffee, the Coffee,
the face, the face of the woman's characteristics,
characteristics characteristic of the Celestial
worst place for a black donkey in Russia.
This is a house of peace of peace's peace of life's
vegetables problem occupation Russia school
a little illustration example number born bisexual
woman Jesus in the year of drinking in Latin America.
The African Rule Book of Advertising Public Marriage;
The *** of the Stars Kidnappers Tell the Children,
Boy Boys A Friend A Star Died A Woman; A Radio
Rhythm Building an Ancient Reading Christian
The brave words of the true king glorify the Glorious
Glory of the Northeastern Highway
Johnny Noiπ Nov 2018
Non-taxpayer, lawyer - outside the astrophobic moon, Jesus IJKA Russia. Photo dressed up Robert Kennedy overnight at night in the night in summer rain frost cold star golden sun salt light option oyster Garden vegetation is the vegetable law of the world; Christian Rights and Google, Greek Physicalism, Tonya, Teacher, Green Tariff, Sutra TRI- Titan, Browns photo, they are Masons, theater-bound young men at the Kenidiyeni Baby book, Robert Jong fereniši Costa, Nimomo Honolulu; Their family imprisoned daughter was a train, a parent of the ten-tail radio; Yeješimini LYRICS Igor Co-Responsible J Dog Wujian China Batteries for Maintenance The Control of Eastern States A Pedestrian Movement Natural Protein US Consumers Protestant Vermicelli Stone. "A Nightmare Sneek of Sigil Jacob" A Dream of an Impossible Angel "The House of Darkness of Dark White" "Intervention" "How to Dream to Encourage the Community" The Child's Picture for a General Introduction, Continued Hebrew E. She is a black woman in the fire, the search for people is easy, flutters in the bush, scattered in boar flocks, world fame, smoke and smoke, in fact: all Muslim policemen, muscular mothers and urban flowers as well as fire muscles and creators Important yellow or yellow baby night, Baby, infant, bright off Cheerful heart muscle gestures, yellow air night coffee coffee face face sky sky George the future woman gossip Christian bad section middle of the year rickshaw rabbit in Russia home in ghost jubilee food garden problems Russia's school curiosity born small number born shame Jesus Jesus state of the years Latin American Latin High Wind Ill The infusion of the true goddess of France is not French. FULL EXAMPLES: Adultery Snooch Baby Book Baloo Self Soul Canada Sacred *** Robert German Christian Poetry Igor Robot Nature of Google Song Page of Truth True Jews Birthday Your Best Happy Word Word Word Humanity KidsCall Day Moonlight Girl Friend Star Deadwife Father Routine 'Wall Wall' Old Street Thomas Tommy Wildspiel North Northe Night Night Climber Summer Winter I Love the World - Teenagers, Lawyers, Christian Law and Google, Greek Ro Taxi, Tonynio. The Teacher, Green Tharif, Satyat Terence Titin, Freeman, Freemason, Freestyle, Kenyan Christmas Bonus, Robert Wangfrenichi, Nimimo Mohan and their children's genius Igor Lemidid, their child, Hadid, Ten Armed Parents. Protein US Consumers Protest Protestant Stonefruit Pedestrians in China Far-East Far-offloading Far East. During the process, "the baby" is the image of the child, the image of the boy and the image "medal" in the Hebrew world. E: "The Illusion of the Solar Eclipse" Satan is a black woman in the fire. The search for people is simple: in the bush that created the bush in the bush, the world of glory. She went out of the smoke and disappeared. In fact, Muslim police officers are in the womb of the child, the child of the child: the bright stars, all the necessary muscular and mushrooming cities, as well as the seal and peace clothing, the yellow or yellow night air, the air, the night, the coffee, the face. Character features Traits Celestine's Bad Place Black Donkey Russia This is a life threatening affair Russian School Peace and Peace House of Peace Small Example Sample Number Born *** Girl A star-studded girl Public-Private-*** Marriage Show African Year of an African American Boy Year of the Boots A friend of a star-old Christian woman who read a real hero to read King's words northeast with the glory of saints died highway to build a radio station Rhythm.

— The End —